Ryan (Taco) Dacey
What draws you to the outdoors?
Reality. Society and the ‘real world’ are unnatural growths in the real world, and they are tiresome. Nature, that of the largely unmodified-by-humans universe, is refreshing because it’s where we all came from and essentially belong. A rich person and a poor person are equal in nature. Your own abilities determine survival. Money is meaningless. Popularity is often also meaningless. The weird little worlds people construct for themselves in the city are nonexistent in the mountains. Don’t fall and die, don’t drown, don’t freeze to death, or die of dehydration. Reality washes away the bullshit, exposes true weakness, and shows the person what they are, who they are, and how to grow. It can be very black and white at times. This is refreshing coming from spending so much time in the city. I still like coming back to a warm bed where I can put my stuff down and it doesn’t get blown away or stolen by raccoons, or eaten by bears, I don’t get covered in ants and I don’t need to worry about flash floods or an avalanche or frostbite. I like the comfort of society just as much as anyone else, but I can only be my true self in the mountains.
Why do people call you after a traditional Mexican Dish (Taco)?
As part of the first generation of people growing up with the internet, I had to pick a screen name for forums and stuff. I had a few ones early on but wanted something new at some point. I chose the name of my favorite local restaurant, Taco Del Rio in La Puente, which I’ve since changed to Taco Del whatever so I don’t take their name, once internet stuff changed and it seemed smart. Buddies in a survival group I am part of way back when, shortened it to Taco, and others followed suit and it stuck. Since there are a bunch of Brians and Ryans out there, Taco worked well ’cause it’s not easily mistaken for anything else.
What aspects of the outdoors are rewarding for you?
As society changes and I feel less connected to it as I age, the indifference of nature to an individual organism is crucial. There are no safety railings in the mountains, no warning signs, no safety police trying to keep you from injury or whatever, just the real world. The outdoors is the real world to me, in great contrast to what everyone has called the ‘real world’, that of the human-created world a lot of us spend so much time in, a world where people spend most of their time inside structures, drive expensive automobiles around that burn gas while preaching ‘sustainability’, structure our lives completely around money, often producing nothing we can consume or survive on. I could spout off forever, suffice it to say I find the majority of what I see in the world I live in to be a perverse and twisted version of living where the subjects give up their finite time in exchange for currency and the hope they can someday retire with enough health to actually do anything when they have time remaining.
In the GO Get Outside Podcast with Jason Milligan you made some interesting comments about the survival of the fittest. Tell me some of your thoughts on this.
As far as survival of the fittest specifically, I have a disease which had I been untreated when I was young would’ve and should’ve killed me, likely several times, so by that ‘law’ I shouldn’t be alive, and I agree with that law. However, that profoundly and completely altered my mindset for life and is critical to my very being. I care little for most of the ideals of modern life and instead like to spend as much time in the real world (outside) with my friends. Time and love are my most valuable ‘things’. I work as much as I need to cover my basic and limited expenses, and I put the rest towards my life outside. I’m in a situation where I can do that.
What lessons have you learned from the outdoors that can be carried over to the average working life or the non-outdoors aspect of your life?
My life has been profoundly changed by my experiences in the real world. It has helped mold me into what any normal person would consider a total loser, and I have found a deep level of satisfaction and happiness in being alive as a result of being freed from the chains of ‘achievement’ and ‘success’ in the normal money world. I have pushed my mind and body further than I thought possible, have lived a very fulfilling life, felt the deep connection and love of so many friends and gained an immense extended family, have survived situations I thought I would die in, sometimes alone, felt deep fear so strong it welled up as an acrid taste in my mouth and been forced by the very nature of commitment to press on to survive, introduced many friends to the world, and so on. As far as how all this affects the non-outdoors aspects of my life, I am simply a different human. I cannot stand cities and large groups of people I don’t already know. I don’t give a shit about most things pushed by the modern world. I don’t really care what people think of me. Again, this has allowed me to feel free and happy in ways I’m not sure I could gain through regular participation in the modern world.
I ride a bike to commute and for work itself. The mountains have made me a much more physically and mentally resilient ape, allowing me to cover the distances I do on a regular basis without much trouble. People often find this impressive, and to my own weakness I do find some enjoyment in that, allowing me to stroke my ego at the expense of the health of the soul, and in the end, I hope more people will, for example, find such distances to be less of an obstacle and perhaps they will consider commuting by bicycle or using other means to move about which engage their body, mind, and soul. You know, all that distance means more time to think, something most people here in the city world don’t have, which I think very strongly contributes to mental health issues. When you’re kept so busy all the time, you can’t figure anything out for yourself and are often exhausted and result to passive entertainment such as television when you do finally have the time. This is unfortunate. Engage the body to engage the mind, and take your time.
Tell me about the culture of how routes are named in canyoneering and climbing and who gets to name them. You did a route and named it “Crimmas Skeletor” which I’ve mentioned to you a number of times as I love the creative and bizarre nature of your route naming. To me, a bit of your personality is captured in some of these names.
The first ascent/descent team gets to pick the name. Sometimes the team would combine last names, such as the Beckey Chouinard route, and other times the nationality of the team would be used, such as the Czech Direct route on Denali. One I’ve named in such a manner is Steele Taco, which is a combo of my buddy’s last name and my nickname. Normally, I pick a name that sorta describes the route, but oftentimes you just kinda go with something funny or whatever comes to mind.
My buddy John came up with the name Crimmas Skeletor, as a result of me descending that canyon close to Christmas, and because Skeletor came to mind. That canyon went down an area recently burned, and many of the anchors were dead bushes in cooked dust and dirt, so it felt right. Nearby Winking Mummy Gulch is just a funny name, also given by John. Danny and I recently descended Sacred Gorilla Gulch, the first route named after our bike club, Dune Ape Bike Squad.
I have named a few climbing routes deep and meaningful names, but eh, I dunno. The experience you get as the first person leading a loose trad route with iffy pro and bad fall potential cannot be replicated. You and/or the person you climb it with share that experience and the rating and name reflect that. People afterward often say it wasn’t as hard, or sometimes debate the name, but it’s often irrelevant. I try to let go and forget all that. I don’t climb to be part of that mindset, of people things, just to be part of the reality of the experience. I don’t care what people think unless they think it’s funny and they enjoy it or whatever. I typically actively discourage climbing my routes as they’re more dangerous than most climbing routes. I like em, maybe I’m fucked up. Whatever.
Are there any favorite or particularly unique route names (I think all of your route names are pretty unique) that you’d like to mention? And why you named it such.
Of current interest is Ant Jemima, a route on Crystal Lake Wall my buddy named. It had a lot of those stinky ants on it, and my buddy Gabe gave it that name. He’s one of the funniest people I’ve ever known, and I love the name. It was ‘redacted’ by the admin on Mountainproject.com, as it was deemed inappropriate. I hate this sort of politically correct behavior to no end, but I also like how such a situation highlights the philosophical and ideological dead end of such things. Perhaps if I had named it after a white food mascot they wouldn’t have canceled it. They probably wouldn’t have batted an eye at Captain Crunch. This highlights their hypocrisy, their feeling that they need to defend minorities as if any of my black friends would be pissed we named a route after a fucking maple syrup brand with a black lady as the face of the company. I suppose if you have no real problems in life, you must create your own, and silence others who don’t think the same way.
On a slightly different note, I usually have friends who help me name things. There’s a 5.9 slab line at Crystal Lake Crag named Fingerbang. One of my best friends Amanda named it, cause there’s a tiny hole on the slab that’s critical for upward movement which you stick your finger in. It’s a real fun route. A crotchety old man in the community (again on mountainproject) took offense to the name. Deal with it. Guess he doesn’t believe in foreplay, probably why he puts so many pictures of flowers up instead of climbing, in direct violation of the site rules he seems to support.
I like giving names to some things that might make people think. A gay friend and I climbed a short corner on Crystal Lake Wall which we named Adam and Steve. There was some politician or other unimportant meatbag who said something to the effect of “it’s Adam and Eve, not Adam and Steve!” in defense of traditional marriage or whatever, so we thought that was hilarious. Hopefully, that pisses off all sorts of people. Sucks to be you.
Are there any particular goals or things that you’re working toward at this time in your life? Vague or specific.
I would like to ride a bike around the world someday. There’s a whole lot I want to see. I’d like to climb in Pakistan, namely around the Charakusa Glacier. I’d like to spend a lot of time in China, exploring the old culture, eating a lot, riding down huge mountain passes, climbing big stuff, all that. I’m working towards seeing how fast I can ride down the coast from Canada to Mexico, probably in summer 2022. 1,800 miles or so, 10–14 days maybe. I have a lot of bike touring plans, not much climbing or canyoneering ones since I don’t have a running car. There are still a handful of canyons left on my radar that need bushwhacking through. I’d like to ride up through the Sierra and hit some big climbs and fast descents on awesome roads. I’m working on a big list of high mountain roads, mostly in California, but some others elsewhere like Colorado and Nevada. I’d also like to cross Nevada once or twice, as it’s sparsely populated, and thus quiet. I’m obsessed with descending paved roads as fast as I can. I’d like to climb the triple crown or whatever in Tuolumne, that is Tenaya Peak — Matthes Crest — Cathedral Peak. All that kinda stuff.
Bike touring is pretty cheap once you have the gear (much like climbing), with the added bonus that my job is food delivery on a bike, so I stay in excellent shape for it all the time. One must travel to do normal people things, so there’s another part of the bike thing. Can be hard to find a hobby that is also practical.
I plan and lead bike trips nowadays. It would be nice to explore doing this professionally, but such jobs are few and far between.
I think I heard your Fish Fork story from our mutual friend Randy before I even met you. Can you tell me about that trip?
This is a very long story so I’ll do my best to condense it down meaningfully. Sometime around 2008–9 or so, some of the forum members including Joseph M. were talking about how little information there was out there on Fish Fork and that whole region. I don’t think any of us knew anyone who had been down that canyon. Zach C. and I decided to go explore it over a few days. We drove down to Prairie Fork, parked, and hiked up into upper Fish Fork.
We found some old webbing at the first rappel, so we knew we weren’t the first ones down. The webbing was old and dried out. We still don’t know who placed it. The canyon was long (8mi), cold, shaded, and had a fair amount of rappels. We bivied partway down, continuing the next day. In the afternoon we hit the big rappel, which is around 90ft I wanna say, and I went first. There is a hydraulic (AKA drowning machine) at the base of the rappel in a big, deep pool, with a deafening waterfall. I got off rope but could not escape the strong pull of the waterfall. I got back on the rope, which was dynamic as we were climbers and not seasoned canyoneers yet, and couldn’t ascend. My pack probably weighed about 60lbs after soaking in the pool. After fighting against the strong current, I told Zach I needed a rescue. I was extremely cold, as there is no sunlight in there. Zach activated his SPOT device and scrambled way far around the area to come and get me from below. I was hypothermic and didn’t know what was going to happen to me. After about 2 hours of scrambling to reach my position, he climbed up the rappel/s below my position and, being the strong swimmer and badass dude he is, saved me by pulling me to shore. He just happens to be a nurse/EMT, so he made me change into my dry clothes since I had no idea what was going on. My skin was blue and I wasn’t making sense. We went further down to the big scree slope where I warmed up while he tried to go back to the top of the rappel.
A SAR Huey flew in and picked Zach up. He told them I was still down there, as they didn’t know there were two of us. A Firehawk came in and hoisted me up after dark. It dragged me and the SAR guy through a massive dead pine tree, where I slammed my head against a branch high off the ground. I’ve been hit in the head a few too many times and am used to seeing stars, but this hit was so hard that everything went white and slowly faded to dark spots before going back to normal. I wasn’t wearing a helmet and asked the rescue guy if he was okay. It was a long day.
We came back and got our stuff in a long 22-mile day, hiking up from Heaton Flat. I’ve since descended the canyon 3 or 4 times, and the big rappel always scares the shit out of me. We’ve had strong swimmers get pulled into the hydraulic down there, it’s no joke. The standard operating procedure for this rappel is to send the strongest dude down first with no pack or anything extraneous, then anchor the line to the shore which isn’t too far away. I often move right (sorta DCL I suppose), towards the shore on rappel, where there’s a little sort of indentation on the wall. I get off-rope balanced there and jump close to shore into water deep enough for that.
Fish Fork is really beautiful and there are almost no signs of human passage, aside from the anchor webbing and some airplane crash parts. It is very long, very cold, and pretty serious. It’s like a super version of Eaton Canyon.
Tell me about your hat.
The Pakol? My buddy brought a grip of em back from Afghanistan. Growing up at the ass end of the cold war, I watched and read about the Mujahideen fighting the Soviets in Afghanistan, specifically Ahmad Shah Massoud, someone I looked up to as a kid. He was killed 9–9‑01. Many things are connected. In short, it’s a nice comfy warm hat with a cool history. I respect the people fighting for their way of life against a larger opponent. I find this to be a core American value in my little fantasy world in my head.
Any other stories or cool anecdotes or things you’d like to share?
I dunno, maybe just some unsolicited advice. Turn your phone off and go far away. Take good care of yourself, especially your soul, and spend as much time with your loved ones as possible. Enjoy every moment you can, for you’re still alive and many can’t enjoy that same freedom. Make people laugh, help strangers, don’t be a bitch, don’t take shit from anyone, and choose time over money. When you’re lying in a hospital bed or somewhere else convinced you’re gonna die, you’ll figure out what matters to you.
Ryan is on Instagram @tacodelbicicleta